A new love interest in her life

Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department store Galeries Lafayette) introduced Coco to Pierre Wertheimer. Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%. Coco was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel. In 1924, Coco introduced her first costume jewelry, which was a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white.

Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal legend." A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster.She introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ‘little black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by visits to Scotland. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the Louvre.

As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Wertheimer soured. She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her talents for their own personal gain. Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman.

Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers, but this attempt ultimately failed.